French Polynesia: Tahiti, A Traveler’s Guide to Paradise

We decided to take an Oceania cruise from Tahiti to Hawaii. Naturally, we wanted to arrive early to enjoy this “Queen of the Pacific.” We dreamed of volcanic peaks, black-sand beaches, and vibrant coral reefs. We wanted to learn about Polynesian culture and taste its flavors. Our knowledge of the island came mostly from movies—Mutiny on the Bounty, Godzilla, Couples Retreat, and Disney’s Moana.

Tahiti turned out to be that rare place that sits in the overlap of expectation and reality. We found warm tropical breezes, lush scenery, sweet island fruits, and turquoise water—but also a few challenges.

At the airport we were greeted by singers and dancers in Polynesian attire.

Finding a Place to Stay

Tahiti has a handful of luxury resorts, but none are in Papeete, the capital of French Polynesia. All require a taxi ride into town. After comparing amenities, we chose Le Tahiti by Pearl Resorts  in Arue—a $50 round-trip taxi ride from Papeete. The resort promised a black-sand beach with a calm cove for snorkeling, a large pool, on-site restaurants, and a two-bedroom suite with a kitchen and plunge pool. While the living space was oddly decorated and not tailored to use for lounging, the patio was lovely. It was elevated above the black sand beach and had a chicken wire fence for security.  It also came with a colorful red rooster who visited like he owned the place, crowing at all hours. (Chickens run free on the island and we encountered them everywhere.)

We stayed in the Royal Suite, the hotel’s only two-bedroom suite. It was spacious but oddly furnished: the living area had one straight-backed wicker chair, a daybed against the wall, a desk chair, and two small chairs by the sliding glass door. No sofa, no comfortable place to gather after dinner. Outside, the patio offered four lounge chairs and an unusual “bird’s nest” daybed—complete with a cushion (which was always wet) and a teepee of wooden poles. The infinity pool overlooked the black-sand beach, which was below our outside area and separated from the beach by a chicken-wire fence.

Most days, we sat outside reading and relaxing. We watched humpback whales breach offshore, beachgoers splash in the surf, and sunsets paint the sky in gold, orange, and crimson. Meals centered around French Polynesian flavors—local fish prepared in countless ways, fresh uru (breadfruit), bananas, mangoes, papayas, and coconut in every form imaginable.

Dan and Joe would walk the black sand beach for miles.

One evening, we ventured into Papeete to try Moana Restaurant, recommended by several locals as “the best in town.” It sits on the water and offers live music, but its 3.8 Google rating turned out to be spot-on. Despite our confirmed reservation (which I overheard our hotel make), the hostess couldn’t find it—and didn’t offer to seat us until we asked. The service was inattentive, and the food merely average. Factoring in the $50 taxi fare, we decided future meals would be enjoyed at the hotel.

Sticker Shock

Breakfast at the hotel was $118 per couple—so off we went to Carrefour in Arue, 2.4 miles away. Our taxi driver, a rather unfriendly fellow who mostly grunted, charged $20 each way. Carrefour felt like a French Costco: huge, well-stocked, and shockingly expensive. Yogurt was $5.50 for 8 ounces, a dozen eggs cost $8, cheese and salmon were $30 per pound, and chicken breasts at $14 per pound. Still, we left with the essentials—snacks, breakfast supplies, and, of course, a few adult refreshments.

Touring the Island

We took a five-hour tour with Tours by Lydia (toursoftahiti.com), and I can’t recommend it enough. Lydia drove us around Tahiti Nui, the main island, in her comfortable van, sharing stories of its history, geology, flora, and culture.

We stopped at:

Parc de Tahara’a viewpoint

Point Venus and its historic lighthouse (Phare de la Pointe Venus)

At Point Venus, Captain Cook observed the 1769 transit of Venus, allowing astronomers to calculate the size of the solar system. Years later, Captain Bligh stopped here to collect breadfruit seeds for transport to the Caribbean—to feed enslaved Africans. If we had a car, we would have returned to enjoy this beach.

Te Faarumai Valley and Vaimahuta Waterfall

At one roadside stand in the Te Faarumai Valley, an elderly woman sold us a small container of pineapple, papaya, and mango—the sweetest fruit we tasted the entire trip.

The Water Gardens Vaipahi 

Grottes De Mara’a (Fern Grotto)

The Ārahurahu Marae sacred site

and the Tomb of King Pōmare V.

While the tour gave us a great overview of the island, in hindsight, renting a car would have given us freedom to explore on our own.  

Beach Days and Black Sand Mishaps

Dan and Joe often walked the beach—1½ miles each way.  We swam off the black sand beach one day. I had an ungraceful exit: caught off balance, I fell, I spun in the undertow like a top, before getting hit in the face by the next wave. It took days to rinse all the black sand out of my swimsuit! Fortunately, no photos of this debacle exist.

Final Thoughts

If you go to Tahiti, be prepared for high prices—especially for taxis, food, and drinks—and unenthusiastic service. But don’t let this overshadow the island’s beauty, rhythm, and spirit. Tahiti isn’t just a place to see—it’s a place to feel.