Derry – Day 5
Walls, Derry Girls and Bubbles
Before Day 5, our collective knowledge of Derry/Londonderry was limited to “It’s in Northern Ireland… right?” Oh, and someone vaguely remembered it being mentioned in Derry Girls (thank you, Netflix). Beyond that, we knew little. Derry is one of the oldest continuously inhabited places in Ireland. A monastery was founded by St. Columba in the 6th century and thereafter had a centuries-long history of sieges, saints, and serious political beef.
We left Belfast under the watchful eye (and foot) of our driver, Finnbar—who did all the work. Upon arrival in Derry/Londonderry, we met our local guide David Douglas, who walked us along the Walls of Derry imparting his historical knowledge and patient walking pace as I climbed the stairs rather slowly.
And these weren’t just any walls—Derry is home to the only completely intact walled city on the island of Ireland. Built between 1613 and 1619 (when Shakespeare was scribbling away), the walls were constructed by English and Scottish settlers as part of the Plantation of Ulster. King James I decided the best way to “settle” Ireland was to ship in some loyal Protestants and hope for the best. Spoiler alert: the Irish chieftains weren’t thrilled.
In 1689, the city faced the Siege of Derry, where 13 apprentice boys slammed the city gates shut in the face of approaching Jacobite forces. The Protestant residents then endured 105 days of starvation, bombardment, and all-around misery. But they didn’t allow the walls get breached—which makes these stone slabs more successful than most modern security systems.
Walls of Derry
The walls stretch a full mile around the city, up to 35 feet wide, and are home to 24 cannons—because nothing says “welcome” like antique artillery. We climbed onto the Wall through Magazine Gate and took in panoramic views of the city. This included Guildhall was built after the Siege of Derry. It houses city and council meetings. It is known for its stunning stained-glass windows and organ.
The still-evident divisions between the Catholic/Nationalists (who would very much like a united Ireland) and the Protestant/Unionists (who would prefer to remain in the UK). Murals from The Troubles (1968–1998) still cover some of the buildings, telling stories of defiance, peace, and plenty of political shade. David explained that the Apprentice Boys March in 1969 (yes, the same boys who saved the city in the Siege of Derry) escalated tensions when pennies were tossed from the walls at the home of the Catholic/Nationalists/Republicans living below the Wall in Bogside. Things… escalated. Riots ensued.
The Wall became part of the Peace Wall separating the Protestant Unionists/Loyalists from the Catholic Nationalists/Republicans communities. We also saw many wooden pallets in a vacant lot, gathered in preparation for the Protestant/Unionists/Loyalists bonfire celebrations on July 11 to celebrate the eve of Orangemen’s Day to commemorate the victory of King William of Orange (Protestant king) over King James II (Catholic), a key event in Irish Protestant history. These bonfires which may include burning the Irish tricolor flag (orange, white, green), usually cause tension with the Catholic/Nationalists/Republicans who see them as anti-Catholic.
View of Bogside, a Catholic/Nationalists/Republican neighborhood
Along the Wall we passed:
—First Derry Presbyterian Church, built in 1690. A Presbyterian congregation existed in Derry since 1640.
—Apprentice Boys Hall, opened in 1877 to memorialize the aforementioned gate-slammer teens.
—St. Augustine’s Church, consecrated in 1872, with direct access to the wall with a front-row view of several hundred years of Protestant-Catholic troubles.
—St. Columb’s Cathedral, completed in 1633 and featuring a mysterious orca sculpture on the lawn, to celebrate the Maritime Festival, celebrating a killer whale (nicknamed Dopey Dick) who swam up the River Foyle in 1977.
We finished our wall-top stroll at New Gate and walked along an area with curbs painted in the red, white and blue of the Union Jack, obviously a Protestant/Loyalist neighborhood. We lunched at Fitzroy’s, conveniently located within view of a giant Derry Girls mural.
When we left Derry, we left the UK (and pounds) and reentered the Republic of Ireland (and euros). We drove to Donegal, and by “we,” I mean Finnbarr. For the last 8 miles we were met by narrow winding one lane roads with high vegetation on each side. I was very glad I was not behind the wheel.
We arrived at Harvey’s Point in Donegal, nestled on Lough Eske in the Bluestack Mountains. We each had our own suite, complete with a bedroom, opening into a hall with a spa-sized bathroom with a large claw foot bathtub on one side and a kitchette on the other, a sitting room with a small couch and chairs, with a sliding glass door to a patio with a view of the lake.
Since the hotel was not in town, we ate there, overlooking the lake. The four of us dressed up a bit. Great food and drink were consumed while we engaged in inside jokes, banter and teasing. After dessert, the oldest grand kid announced they were going to retire to their room and enjoy a bath with bubbles. My husband wanted to know when they met “Bubbles.”
